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Toronto’s latest hot spot

By Chris Johns

Union defines the city’s new cuisine.

Just when it seemed that Ossington Street – Toronto’s formerly run-down, now fabulous new restaurant row – couldn’t possibly get any hotter, along comes Union. Specializing in the kind of farm-focused, seasonally inspired bistro fare that chef Teo Paul fell in love with while living in Paris, the restaurant has been one of the toughest reservations in town since opening last summer.

Tonight, as usual, it’s standing-room only, as those without reservations wait for a seat at one of the perches along the large U-shaped bar. Beyond that, the simple, handsome room – a long narrow brick-lined space dominated by a sunny, bucolic mural – is buzzing with a happy crowd. Most tables have a plate of tiny burgers on them. These are the restaurant’s signature Elk Sliders – rich, meaty little morsels of ground elk basted with a sweet mirin glaze on toasted challah bread topped with an exotically spiced pickle – and they are already one of the dishes that define Toronto.

The willowy blonde at the next table lets out a contented sigh and offers her date a bite of her truffle fonduto, a luscious, creamy concoction of melted cheese infused with earthy truffle. You could finish ordering without even looking at a menu – ultimately, it comes down to a tough decision between the quarter-chicken with crushed new potatoes and radishes that the waiter is carrying and the massive, meaty côtes de boeuf with French fries that the table on your other side is sharing. Better not to rush the decision. Have another glass of that delicious new Mourvèdre the sommelier recommended and let the evening unfold as it will.

 

Getting here

Union Restaurant, 72 Ossington Ave., 416-850-0093, union72.ca
Ontario Tourism, 1-800-ONTARIO (1-800-668-2746), www.ontariotravel.net

 

Chris Johns is a Toronto-based food and travel writer.

Photo: Robert Brodey