Saskatoon's British flavors

By Sarah Musgrave

Pub grub goes posh on the Prairies.

There’s no Union Jack motif to give it away, but the menu at Simon’s British Flavours certainly wears its colors proudly. Opened in February 2007, this Saskatoon startup puts a modern spin on all things unabashedly British: from the slow-cooked lamb in the “real” shepherd’s pie to the haddock battered in Great Western Brewery beer for the fish and chips.

In the kitchen of this airy, two-floor establishment is chef Simon Reynolds, who relocated to the Prairies after 20 years in the food and hospitality trade in Great Britain. It wasn’t all that long ago that English cooking was derided as sheer stodge, but with the London restaurant scene having made spectacular gains, Reynolds has brought some of that same energy to this local venture. He cooks everything from scratch – stocks, soups, sauces, breads and even the curds for the lemon tarts – and his blackboard menu incorporates local and seasonal ingredients.

Always on offer is a list of stylish comfort foods that range from salmon and dill fishcakes with lemon butter sauce and mixed leaf salad to a sandwich of Coronation chicken with curried mayonnaise. In the evening, tender lamb shank in a honey glaze is served with bubble and squeak (a vegetable fry-up named after the sounds it makes while cooking). For dessert, there’s classic strawberry shortcake or sticky toffee pudding to indulge in. As in any self-respecting English eatery, afternoon tea is indeed served, and Simon’s has it down to a T – complete with scones and clotted cream. More importantly for some, there’s beer on tap, both imported and domestic.

Getting here

Simon's British Flavours, 240 22nd St. E., Saskatoon, SK, 306-477-4468, simonsbritishflavours.com
Tourism Saskatoon, 1-800-567-2444, tourismsaskatoon.com
Saskatchewan Tourism, 1-877-237-2273, www.sasktourism.com

Sarah Musgrave is a Montréal-based food journalist. She is the casual dining restaurant reviewer for the Montréal Gazette and the author of Resto-À-Go-Go: 200 Cheap and Fun Places to Eat and Drink in Montreal 2007.